Verget Saint-Véran Vigne deSaint-Claude 2019 維榭酒莊《醇酒系列 - F800 》
產區/級別 : Saint-Véran Vigne de Saint-Claude/ Maconnais馬貢 / Bourgogne布根地
葡萄品類 : Chardonnay 夏多麗
酒精度 : 14.5% vol
網站: https://www.verget-sa.fr/fr/content/6-verget
⭐開創先河 獨特的Chardonnay風格 在馬貢區用上橡木桶發酵培養及攪桶
⭐因釀造出優質抵飲的布根地白酒而成名 By Jancis Robinson
⭐A crazy Belgian who make Macon wine as good as Puligny by Robert Parker
⭐被著名酒評家Neal Martin婚宴採用的酒”Best value wine in France”
⭐漫畫神之水滴介紹Verget果實豐富又溫和纖細的Chablis
🏆 Wine Advocate 91 pts
"Before Guffens, no one knew that Mâcon Peirreclos or even Pouilly-Fuissé could rival Corton-Charlemagne or Bâtard Montrachet. Now they do."
Andrew Jefford, The New France
"This peerless winemaker has surpassed himself with recent vintages."
Bettane & Desseauve, The World’s Greatest Wines
背景
Guffens 釀酒理念強調純淨 Purity ，在沒有他出現，無人會相信 Macon的白酒能夠足以與名區 Corton-Charlemagne ，Batard Montrachet Meursault 及 Puligny Montrachet 匹敵，Robert Parker 初試他的白酒就直接形容：「A crazy Belgian who make Macon wine as good as Puligny )，酒評家普遍認為Verget白酒有著純淨的果香，並且能夠忠實反映出產區特性。
「Don't buy Verget wines looking for the kind of cheese paste, farm straw richness of traditional "funky" white Burgundy; these are white wines made with the kind of ravishing purity, compelling sensual austerity more familiar among the greatest winemakers of the Saar, the Ruwer, or Alsace.” That pretty much sums things up.」Andrew Jefford — Decanter 編輯
在Burgundy酒商們，Verget 的Jean-Marie Guffens 是白手興家之一的傳奇人物，1976年夫婦二人 Main 與 Jean Marie從比利時來到布根地，並在學習法文當中愛上葡萄酒，其後在 馬貢的Maine 村一家酒莊幫忙並學習栽種，用了手上僅餘的幾百法郎積蓄在Maconnais的 Vergisson 買下一塊小莊園成立 Domaine Guffens-Heynen ，憑著其認真的釀酒態度和出色的手藝，超乎常人的辛勤，不用化學肥料、採用天然酵母山、降低產量、不過濾，保留風土的純淨度，Domaine Guffens-Heynen 名聲漸漸上升，1991年Guffens成立了Maison Verget，開始收購葡萄進行釀造。Verget全系列的產品都是白葡萄酒，幾乎覆蓋整個布根地，雖然不是 Domaine 酒，但Guffens對原料絶不鬆懈，合約的葡萄農必須係低產量，最成熟的時候採收，更會經常檢查葡萄酒農有否按照他的要求栽種葡萄，Guffens被稱為布根地中最辛勤工作之一，在 Chablis葡萄農眼中，Jean-Marie Guffens “They are one-eyed kings in the land of the blind “ 稱讚Guffens的眼光和天份。
” Jean-Marie Guffens現年65歲，出名不跟規矩，往往給人意想不到。早年一開始探用伯恩丘的釀酒方式，如橡木桶發酵及培養又攪桶on lees來釀造馬貢區的白酒，因此引來許多的注意。因為偏好較高海拔的葡萄園以保有更多的酸味，配合馬貢區更為圓潤的口感，以及木桶發酵所增添的香氣與厚實質地，形成了一種相當獨特的Chardonnay夏多內風格。他的成功也啟發了許多追隨者，如Olivier Merlin、 Jean Rijckaert，和夏布利的Patrick Piuze 都已經開設自己的酒莊。”by 林裕森
在漫畫神之水滴Verget的一級田Chablis 在第3集登場，用被稱為「魔術師」的白葡萄品種Chardonnay在釀造，果實豐富又溫和、纖細的Chablis。今次推薦是他的大區酒 Chablis Cuvee de la Butte
「Classy but keenly priced white Burgundy isn't easy to come by these days, so we should all be thankful for the Maison Verget. These wines come warmly recommended.” 」William Kelly—The Wine Advocate
被著名酒評家Neal Martin婚宴採用的酒Best value wine in France by Neal Martin Vinous
Guffens never became a successful actor because he could not follow a script – and so he became a winemaker who could not follow a script. How perverse that a man with a trenchant dislike for rules ended up in a country whose wine industry is hidebound by them. His career has been spent rubbing people the wrong way, whether it is fellow winemakers, the press or business partners. The one constant throughout has been the quality of his wines. However much you might disagree with his views or smart at his opinions, you cannot argue when you take that first sip. Then factor in that these wines continue to be sold at prices that embarrass those asked for a swath of white burgundy, and – to use one of Parker’s expressions – it’s a no-brainer.
My nuptials proved that you don’t have to spend a fortune to have a great, memorable wedding; it’s about using what you’ve got. This is how Guffens operates. He does not need a prestigious vineyard – just give him some decent vines with decent terroir and he will turn out a delicious and occasionally profound wine. Guffens’ acting teacher quickly identified his personality, rebellious nature, inability to keep still and aversion to being told what to do. Scripts are useless for Jean-Marie Guffens. Only fate could ultimately determine his career – which happened to be in wine – much to the benefit of the Mâconnais. Long may the bad boy continue making mischief.
因釀造出優質抵飲的布根地白酒而成名By Jancis Robinson
Guffens began his winemaking career in the Mâconnais, known for producing poor man’s white burgundy well to the south of the hallowed Côted’Or. He was later to venture northwards to make some wine on the ‘golden slope’ and a considerable quantity of Chablis under his Verget négociant label, but you could say that his mission in life has been to prove that Mâconna is whites can be better than those from such famous white wine villages as Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. This tasting of his exceptionally nervy, long-lived wines to a large extent confirmed his hypothesis.
He told the story, with delight, of how the famous American wine critic Robert Parker wrote in 1983 about a crazy Belgian who makes Mâcon wine as good as Puligny. Two weeks later when Parker visited him, Guffens told him that this was an awful thing to say. ‘I just want to be me and make wine my way. Art is not to be compared.’
Saint-Véran Vigne de Saint-Claude
園地位於Prissé鎮，但非常靠近Pouilly-Fuissé de Vergisson。 葡萄藤大約有50年的樹齡，土壤是黏土石灰石，非常堅硬。
這種酒僅由FREE RUN組成，僅用25％新酒桶發酵至12月底結束，桶中的陳釀持續了大約6個月。 由於這種酒中存在很好的酸度。
該酒具有烤黑胡椒的辛辣香氣。 還有更多的水果香氣，例如橙和橘子。 口感非常清晰準確，非常長，酸味令人愉悅。 它具有很好的寬度和很好的平衡。
🏆 Wine Advocate 91 pts
Aromas of pear, peach, wheat toast and pastry cream introduce the 2019 Saint-Véran Vigne de Saint-Claude, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy wine with a nicely concentrated core of sun-kissed fruit, lively acids and a nicely defined finish.
Julien Desplans has excelled himself once again with the 2019 vintage, which has turned out very nicely for Maison Verget. If 2018 was defined by copious yields, permitting selective pressing, 2019 was a small crop, thanks to the confluence of several factors: first frost on April 5th, diminishing yields in some parcels by as much as 50%; then a cool and rainy flowering, resulting in incomplete fruit set; and then a hot, dry growing season that made for small berries. Despite sugars rising rapidly, Guffens and Desplans opted to wait for full physiological maturity, beginning their harvest on September 12th in the Mâconnais and finishing on the 25th. These are powerful, muscular wines, with huge concentration and elevated levels of dry extract, as well as comparatively high alcohols, and they were harder to taste than the 2018s at the same stage.That notwithstanding, I believe that the 2019s surpass the 2018s when taken as a set.
As I've written before, Verget's Sologny winery is a sizable facility, unlike the tiny cellars of Domaine Guffens-Heynen, but artisanal methods have been intelligently scaled to match the requirements of larger-scale production:large horizontal stainless steel tanks, for example, offer the same lees-wine ratio as oak barrels, and the lees can be worked with nitrogen without introducing any oxygen into the vessel. Such inventiveness—and Desplans's evident fastidiousness—explain how Verget can offer such quality on such a scale. The best cuvées very much belong among the Mâconnais élite, but this portfolio is also rich with terrific values to purchase by the case, which would make ideal daily drinkers or by-the-glass pours. Classy but keenly priced white Burgundy isn't easy to come by these days, so we should all be thankful for the Maison Verget. Once again, these wines come warmly recommended.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (249), June 2020
$228/支
