Dal Forno Romano Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta 2008 達爾富諾《風土系列-TI1024》

產區 / 級別 : Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 阿瑪羅尼

葡萄品種: Corvina 科維納、Rondinella 羅蒂內拉、Croatina科羅帝納、Oseleta奧塞萊塔

酒精度: 16.5%

網站介紹: https://dalfornoromano.it/

🌟 Dal Forno Romano新派Amarone殿堂級人物

🌟 與亦師亦友的Giuseppe Quintarelli並稱Amarone之王 “The Kings of Amarone”

🏅 Vinous 98 pts

🏅 James Suckling 97 pts

🏅 Wine Advocate 96 pts

Dal Forno Romano酒莊位於Verona東邊的La Val d'Illasi，雖然不屬於Amarone Classico區的範圍，但多得肯冒險的莊主Romano Dal Forno，才能在這「不經典」的產區，產出一支又一支「經典」的Amarone，更甚者重新定義出Amarone的標準。  

值得一提的是因為Dal Forno Romano 所處的Illasi山區並非Classico經典產區。所以即使Dal Forno Romano是按照Riserva規定的時間陳年卻並不能標註Riserva，而Dal Forno Romano也只出產了一款Amarone，並沒有出產Superiore 和Riserva， 但也絲毫不損Dal Forno的地位。  

Dal Forno 雖然成立於1983年， 但短短十數年間已經成為意大利乃至全世界最被受觸目的酒莊

知名雜誌《Decanter》早已把Dal Forno歸類為意大利的「五大酒莊」之一。 

傳奇的Jancis Robinson MW則在介紹Amarone的文章中指名Dal Forno是「獨具特色的代表性酒莊」。  

葡萄酒教父Robert Parker除了折服於Dal Fono的出品外， 更表示Romano Dal Forno是位謙遜、腳踏實地，且相當熱情的人。 

「那近乎偏執的性格是令他成功的主因， 因為只要和他相處幾分鐘，就不難理解他追求高品質的『固執』和決心。我從不認識如此執著於酒窖乾淨程度的釀酒人；在這裡，一切都會物盡其用，好比葡萄園極高的種植密度，每公頃將近12,800株葡萄藤，就如手術室一般的精準。」  

雖然Romano Dal Forno的創新和實驗性質令他一舉成為Amarone區最搶手的酒莊，但他同樣沒有忘記初心，各式酒款仍舊忠實地展現了產區Terroir特性，釀造出優雅可口、又充滿Veneto特色的美酒。  

這點全因為Romano曾拜學於Valpolicella區的宗師 Giuseppe Quintarelli, 並經常與Quintarelli交流釀酒的心得，令到Dal Forno的出品改良了Quintarelli的傳統工藝，並勇敢地抱擁新式的釀酒方式，由種植密度到更先進的風乾葡萄手法再到發酵方式最後到陳熟方式，Romano都自有一番獨特的見解，最重要是他對酒莊潔淨度的偏執也一一成為他成功的主因

極端種植手法 

Dal Forno的葡萄種植密度異常地高，接近13,000株每公頃，是一般酒莊的3-4倍，這樣極端的手法令他們每棵葡萄樹的果串數量大大降低，酒莊的少主曾分享：『我們的Valpolicella Superiore約要7棵葡萄樹才能釀成一瓶酒，一般酒莊只要2棵就可以，而Amarone更要近10棵葡萄樹才能釀出，所以我們的產量非常稀少年產量僅20,000瓶左右。』  

另外Romano也對小眾品種葡萄Oseleta情有獨鐘，甚至在混釀中降低Rondinella的比例來成全Oseleta，藉而從Oseleta厚皮且高單寧的葡萄中粹取更多的酸度、色澤及力量。

採收和風乾 

每年九月初，Romano都會與三個兒子Luca，Michele 和 Marco領導一隊約40人的團隊在葡萄園中篩選和採收，一般整個採收歷時兩月有多，全程皆手工採摘沒有任何瑕疵的果串，之後再平鋪於通風透氣的塑料板條箱內。  

接著便到最重要的風乾Appassimento程序登場 一般採用傳統風乾手法的酒莊會把葡萄置於一間通風的木屋並把葡萄放在名為Graticci的木架上風乾為期70至90天不等。隨著風乾期的增加，葡萄會流失30-60%的水份，糖份也因而提高，發酵後的酒精度提高外，酒體的濃郁度也會繼而提升!

但熱愛冒險的Romano又怎會滿足於傳統的風乾手法 所以他便獨自設計了整個全新的先進風乾系統， 打造了全自動化的風乾房， 房間內有多個吊軌掛著臂架並吊著一組三個的風扇， 再通過全自動溫度濕度的感應監測，臂架會自動開啟並沿著軌道來回緩慢移動，不但可調頻率及風速而且臂架上每個風扇皆可正反兩面獨立工作，亦可組合搭配。當兩個臂架交互移動時，同一水平的風扇便會形成環形氣流，縱橫交錯地完成360度無死角的通氣風乾， 盡一切可能減低霉菌的出現。

因為Romano對貴腐霉菌十分抗拒， 他認為丁點的霉菌都對Valpolicella和Amarone的香氣有害， 而且有幾會為成品添上不愉悅的Volatile Acidity氣息，  所以為確保果串絕對的清爽，他會在發酵前再進行多一次篩選。  另外， 近年Dal Forno的Valpolicella都會和Amarone一樣100%經過風乾，但風乾時間只有Amarone的1/3左右。

釀造手法 

Dal Forno酒窖內的設備也盡顯現代化高科技的特色， 酒窖內有一組又一組的大型不鏽鋼桶， 最特別是每個不鏽鋼桶都會垂直插著四根柱子來進行Punch Down淋皮的程序， 不同於一般酒莊用人手周而復始地進行這動作， Dal Forno則選用電腦控制。四根柱子每天都會定時依次往下壓，使得葡萄皮的Cap始終保持在液面以下，不但省卻了人手，更避免了酒液受到氧化的傷害，令酒可以更好的萃取香氣口感與顏色。  

Dal Forno釀成的酒同樣在不鏽鋼桶中進行Racking，並且全程處於真空狀態下進行免得酒液受氧化。這樣不但減少了使用二氧化硫，最後會與無氧裝瓶設備一起，進一步提升了陳年能力。

木桶陳存

作為Amarone新派的代表， Romano也選用225公升的法國新橡木桶來取代傳統的Slavonian大型木桶.  陳存前都會在木桶注入氮氣來保護酒液， 之後會在木桶中陳釀2-3年， 並進行一次過桶再在瓶中陳熟2-4年不等， 其中 Amarone一般陳存期達到7年之久。

綜合Dal Forno的陳釀方式， 也深深明白到他們的酒有極大的陳存力，因此酒莊所有的酒都建議開瓶後數小時後才飲用，有耐心的話Amarone更可預早八小時左右開瓶抖氣。又因為Romano在釀造時盡一切避免酒液氧化所以即使陳存多年後仍然保留了十足的果感! 

🏅 Vinous 98 pts

The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella is compelling. With a little air, the tannins begin to soften, releasing a myriad of intense dark aromas and flavors. Bittersweet chocolate, cloves, violets, plums and blackberry jam cover every inch of the palate in a stunning, headspinning Amarone that captures all of the best qualities of the year. 

When Romano Dal Forno's wines are on, there is nothing quite like them, and that is certainly the case here. If opened young, the 2008 needs a little air. Actually, a lot of air. Dal Forno fans will be thrilled with these new releases. The 2008s are off the charts. Dal Forno only makes his Amarone when the vintage warrants. The 2008 reminds me of the 2004, but perhaps with a bit more structure and tannin. I imagine it will provide a long drinking window of pure pleasure. 

In the meantime, the 2007 Valpolicella (from a year in which there is no Amarone) will drink well young, while the 2008 provides some glimpses as to what is in store for readers lucky enough to find the 2008 Amarone. As always, these are some of the richest and most textured wines being made anywhere in the world. 

🏅 James Suckling 97 pts

Wonderful aromas of rose petal, blackberry, sugared walnut and hints of sea salt. Full body, ultra-fine tannins and a warm, enticing palate with dried fruits, blackberry, black olive and freshly cracked slate. Fabulous Amarone.

🏅 Wine Advocate 96 pts

Production was skipped over in 2007 due to extreme hail damage. The fruit that would normally be destined to Amarone went to the lower tier Valpolicella Superiore instead. The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta marks a return to a slightly cooler vintage with a longer growing season slowed down during the summer's moderate temperatures. Indeed, harvest was wrapped up during the first days of November. 

The blend is mostly Corvina, at about 60%, with smaller parts Corvinone, Rondinella, Croatina and Oseleta. The new Dal Forno winery was finished in 2008, complete with the unique vacuum-sealed fermentation tasks that help to avoid any intrusive oxygen during winemaking. 

Indeed, this wine is balanced and elegant with fruit that is still crunchy and very much alive. The tannins are firm and nicely integrated into the wine's thick, fleshy consistency. This vintage is characterized by a very elegant and graceful approach, which must be taken into context given the enormity of a wine of this caliber. Happily, there is no doubt that this vintage should still evolve steadily over time.

$2,190/支