Domaine Amelie Berthaut Fixin Crais 2016 《風土系酒款 - TF998》

產區 / 級別 : Burgundy 布根地 - Fixin 菲克桑 

葡萄品種 : Pinot Noir 黑皮諾

酒精度 : % vol

網站介紹: https://www.berthaut-gerbet.com/

⭐Burgundy 布根地超新星 Amelie Berthaut

⭐被一眾酒評視為Fixin區龍頭酒莊

⭐高分酒款︳優異風土

🏅 Wine Advocate 90-92 pts

🏅 Allen Meadows 87-90

🏅 Vinous 90 pts

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet歷經多代傳承是Fixin區嘅傳統名莊之一, 而家傳到第7代接班人AmelieBerthaut手上, 亦成為Fixin區乃至一眾Burgundy酒評眼中最興奮嘅消息, 因為AmelieBerthaut成功揉合現代與傳統釀酒手法,充分把Fixin區嘅特色表露無遺地展現出來

不如一齊睇下幾位酒壇公認嘅Burgundy專家又有咩評價?

獨立布根地酒評家WineHog - Steen Öhman

至愛酒莊之一, 更評價Les Crais為Fixin區最出色的村莊

“One of my favourite estates these days isthe rising star Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Another exciting vineyard of DomaineBerthaut-Gerbet is the Fixin Les Crais a vineyard that produce one of the mostdelightful village wines of Fixin.”

布根地酒傳奇酒商Becky Wasserman

推崇Berthaut-Gerbet 為Fixin區的頭號酒莊

真誠︳細膩︳通透

“Everythingat Berthaut-Gerbet now points to the hatching of a Grand Domaine. It will begradual, thought-out, and real.”

Vinous布根地區主編兼名酒評家Neal Martin

“Amélie Berthaut當之無愧的Fixin區皇后!”

Amélie Berthaut is rapidly becoming the mostwell-known winemaker in the village of Fixin, and to be honest, I cannot thinkof anyone who deserves it more.

Matt Kramer提倡Terroir的Pioneer/美國酒評家

“Less well-known than the two powerhouselandowners, Domaines Gelin and Joliet, Domaine Berthaut is among the best inthe district!”

相信一眾Bur友見到以上嘅Burgundy酒評家陣容, 都會了解到Amélie Berthaut 有幾堅揪啦

AmélieBerthaut所打造嘅Les Crais都係全人手採摘, 而且都出產自60-80年老藤, 然後再在祖傳的水泥Cement Tank發酵最後會再於約20%新桶陳熟, 這樣的釀法不但能保留風土特色更能帶出Fixin區獨有滋味

🏅 Wine Advocate 90-92 pts

The 2016Fixin Les Crais was taken directly from tank and will include 20% new oak. Ithas a clean and pure bouquet with raspberry and crushed strawberry notes, atouch of vanilla pod developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied withfine-grained tannin, slightly chalky in texture and with plenty of freshness onthe finish. This is a step up from the Fixin Village.

AmélieBerthaut is rapidly becoming the most well-known winemaker in the village ofFixin, with the wines under her tenure gaining wide acclaim. That this has beencontemporaneous with an expansion of holdings from her mother’s side of thefamily seems to have elevated her status higher still. With vineyard pricesreaching stratospheric levels, it is rare not only to see someone young takeover the running of a domaine and take it to a higher level, but to also beblessed with her family’s own vines upon which she can practice her craft. Andto be honest, I cannot think of anyone who deserves it more.

Nevertheless,she was not spared the onslaught of the frost in 2016, and I began by askingAmélie about the damage. “In Fixin it depends upon the vineyard. Some wereaffected up to 70% or 80%. We were lucky because we have so many differentvineyards, and we are OK compared to other growers in Marsannay and Chambolle-Musigny.For some vineyards, we thought that the day after the frost it was really bad.As it turned out, the damage was not as severe as we expected. In Les Crais,80% of the vineyard was frosted, but we lost around 40% to 50% of the averageproduction. It was the oldest vines that found it difficult to grow again.There is no single-vineyard Gevrey Clos des Chezeaux. We started the picking on26 September, and it was difficult to decide the order to harvest the blocks,and in the end we chose a different order to other years. We finished on 12October in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.”

The outstanding wine this vintage was the Gevrey-Chambertin LavauxSaint-Jacques, a sublime expression of the vineyard that you would think hadbeen crafted by a vigneron with dozens of vintages under their belt. Elsewhere,I admire greatly Amélie's Fixins that continue to demonstrate that thisappellation could and should be taken more seriously by cognoscenti,particularly the Les Arvelets. Overall, it is another great vintage for adomaine that has enjoyed such a rapid ascent but is keeping its feet on theground. Investments have been made in renovating outbuildings and installingsome snazzy new concrete vats, but Amélie is taking everything one pace at atime. She already has some great wines under her belt. She will have many more. 

🏅 Allen Meadows 87-90

Heretoo a subtle backdrop of wood frames the ultra-fresh aromas of both red anddark currants, floral and pungent earth scents. There is a marked contrastbetween the relatively refined mid-palate mouthfeel to the middle weightflavors that diverge materially from the moderately austere and rustic finalethat is notably firmer.

🏅 Vinous 90 pts

(fromalluvial soil with more stones, not to mention a cooler combe influence; 30%vendange entier; bottled in December; Berthaut noted that 80% of the buds werelost to frost but a good amount of second-generation grapes ripened, so sheonly lost 50% of her normal volume): Lovely deep color. Less fruit-driven thanthe basic village Fixin, showing more mineral and soil tones on the nose. Thenplush, spicy and sweet, conveying a rather relaxed quality for a wine mademostly from second-generation grapes. An element of saline, stony mineralityadds interest. With its very good mouth coverage and rather fine-grained dustytannins, this is showing well already but it should offer some aging potential.

$485/支