*售完* Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean 2017 尼爾倫酒莊夏山蒙哈榭一級園 Chassagne-Montrachet《風土系酒款 - TF775 》

"Two parcels – one in CSJ and the other in the climat of Rebichets:

Again a little reduction, here with a little saline aroma impression too. More volume and freshness in the mouth – very fine and accessible complexity – lots of little fireworks with good freshness and ending with small waves of interest. The most attractively forward of these wines – purity and texture – simply delicious. Bravo!"

🏅Wine Advocate 94 pts

🏅Allen Meadows 92 pts

🏅Vinous 89-91 pts

Domaine Michel Niellon（尼爾倫酒莊）這座袖珍酒莊的建立經過了很長一段時間。最開始MichelNiellon 從父母手中繼承過來的一座 3公頃的葡萄園。1948 年，年僅 14歲的 Michel Niellon 開始在葡萄園中工作。那是一段十分艱難的時期，因為當時正處於第二次世界大戰剛結束時。195年服完兵役後，尼爾倫就開始將部分的葡萄酒在酒莊內進行裝瓶，然後把它們賣給一些朋友和客戶，酒莊便逐漸發展起來。

現在Domaine Michel Niellon 大約有7 公頃的葡萄園，種植66% 的Chardonnay（霞多麗）和34% 的Pinot Noir（黑皮諾），葡萄藤的樹齡從7 年到77 年不等，樹齡最大的是Chevalier-Montrachet（1962年種植）和 Batard-Montrachet（1927年種植），葡萄藤的平均密度為 10,000株/公頃，平均產量為 4,800~5,400升/公頃。

而酒款葡萄園位於Chassagne-Montrachet（夏山蒙哈榭）20個一級葡萄園其中一個。該地土壤極具勃艮第特色，但南北土壤有較大的差別。南部以石灰岩和紅色礫石為主，適合種植Pinot Noir ，北部土壤是黏質石灰岩，最適合種植Chardonnay。該產區為大陸性氣候，夏季溫暖乾燥，冬季寒冷漫長。儘管此處比Chablis 要暖和些，但春天依舊寒冷，這會影響甚至阻礙葡萄的生長。

過去，該產區幾乎只出產由Pinot Noir 釀制的紅葡萄酒。19世紀末，葡萄根瘤蚜在此氾濫，葡萄藤大面積死亡，葡萄酒產業遭受重創。隨後當地人們重整旗鼓，在重新種植葡萄藤時，引入了Chardonnay 葡萄品種。到20 世紀30 年代，該產區1/4 的葡萄園都開始釀制白葡萄酒。這裡所產的白葡萄酒細緻而柔美，多汁而充滿花香。其白葡萄酒卓越的品質為該產區贏得了美譽，白葡萄酒產量也從此一路飆升。

 

酒莊葡萄酒產量適中，在不銹鋼酒槽中進行發酵，在橡木桶中陳年，新橡木桶的更新比例不超過 20%~25%。裝瓶前澄清，並進行輕微過濾，過濾一般是在陳年後的 12 到 14 個月後進行。這座酒莊最不尋常之處就在於，它的葡萄酒從不會令人失望。不管當年份葡萄酒的品質是普通的還是優秀的，MichelNiellon 都能釀造出超越年份本身品質葡萄酒。更值得一提的是，20 世紀 80 年代出產的年份酒證明，酒莊出產的葡萄酒有著極大的陳年潛力。

🏅Wine Advocate 94 pts

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean is one of the highlights of the Niellon portfolio this year, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, lemon, toast, nutmeg and subtle smoke. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with terrific depth, racy acids and a long, stony finish. 1992 was the first vintage for these vines, Niellon's holdings here having previously been planted entirely to Pinot Noir, and they are clearly hitting their stride today: it's the finest white Clos Saint-Jean I've tasted from this domaine.

🏅Allen Meadows 92 pts

 A gentle touch of wood sets off aromas of green fruit, citrus, petrol and a similar whiff of soft floral nuances. There is both good volume and richness to the middle weight flavors that also exude a subtle minerality on the focused, intense and impressively lengthy finish. This isn't quite as complex as the Verges but it's still excellent.

🏅Vinous 89-91 pts

Bright, light yellow. More crushed rock and menthol than primary fruit on the nose today. A step up from the Champgains in tension on the palate, showing good citrus lift and mineral intensity. Here the acidity is fresh but less spiky, giving the wine a shapely quality. Finishes with a note of lemon peel. Very good potential here. 

$645/支