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[風土系]
TF481- Louis Michel & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons blanc 2017
路易米歇爾酒莊夏布利Vaillons 一級園2017
產區:Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons
葡萄品種:100% Chardonnay 莎當妮
酒精度 : 13%
官網﹕http://louismicheletfils.com
樹齡: 1969 - 1976 - 1984
釀酒師: Guillaume Michel
*完美反映風土 零木桶 百分百原生酵母
*JS93 + Vinous 93 + RP 92 + Burghound.com 91
*Chablis 同生蠔最配襯
完美反映風土 零木桶 百分百原生酵母
酒莊自種自釀,歷史追溯至1640年,釀酒師 Guillaume Michel 承繼爺爺用全不鏽鋼桶,不落木桶。因為阿爺講過佢無咁多時間運用橡木桶作陳存,因為他相信最重要的部份都在葡萄園裡,酒的好壞,9成以上都係睇事前在葡萄園的功夫,講求怎樣照顧塊田。田好,自然葡萄好,葡萄好自然酒好。所以他們家族將全副心機放係塊田到。當你上網 search unoak chablis,應該就會搵到 Louis Michel 。Guillaume自2006年接手,開始採用原生酵母。意味著不能亂用化學物,留住原生酵母,更反映當地的風土。要做就做到盡,做到最好。難怪Louis Michel 會成為 Chablis 前列的頭3位,而且有可能係表達 Chablis 最原始風土的一位。"
The three top Chablis producers arefairly well agreed on among sommeliers: Francois Raveneau, Rene et Vincent Dauvissat, and Louis Michel....Louis Michel is the stalwart of stainless-steel,traditional, unoaked Chablis. I often think that Louis Michel, though not ashighly regarded, may be the best of all of them. The wine is pure, astransparent, and as direct as they come.” (Secrets of the Sommeliers by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay)
眾多酒評家對 Louis Michel & Fils 一致讚賞
Allen Meadows
Some really beautiful wines, and not only at the Grand Cru level
Tim Atkin MW
The premium example of Chardonnay in its purest,unadorned form
Bettane+Desseauve
The wines age wonderfully, each bringing out thequality of its terroir
Clive Coates MW
This is a brillant consistent estate... The magnificently austere and steely wines keep much longer than most Chablis
Revue du Vin de France
This winery develops a direct style of Chardonnay.Wines are designed for 10 to 20 years of bottle ageing
Sarah Marsh MW
This is a high maintenance wine, raised in luxury,with no expense spared
而Jancis Robinson MW 就話若然喜歡最純正的風味夏布利,並帶有強烈的酸度和礦物質品質,Louis Michel & Fils就係你要搵的酒。
Chablis, with the firm streak of acidity and the mineral quality that the French describe as goût de pierre à fusil, or gunflint. Louis Michel's is generally considered to be the epitome of this style."(Jancis Robinson MW)
Chablis1er Cru Les Vaillons
Chablis舉世聞名就係襯上生蠔,多年前仲未入行睇過神之水滴當中就有講過神咲豐多香用Chablis配生蠔,又話葡萄園嘅泥土係恐龍世紀時的海床等等,當時睇到覺得佢吹到好大。而家先知一直都有根有據。翻查資料,Chablis和鄰近區域的岩層同質性非常高,山坡上的土壤幾乎全是距今一億多年前侏羅紀晚期 Kimmeridgien 年代所堆積成的岩層,沒有太多的變化。當時布根地與巴黎盆地都陷落海中,而Chablis附近有豐富海洋生物,鸚鵡螺,海膽及蠔,堆積成一種岩質較軟,含豐富白堊質,白灰色泥灰岩,而當中還能找到蠔的化石。所以釀出來的酒含豐富的礦物質感,配好係絕配。加上布根地係邊緣酒區,天氣溫度只能今葡萄緊熟,酒當然都係高酸。就好似食蠔時都會滴啲檸檬汁,所以呢點令 CHABLIS 更令生蠔鮮甜特出。要提提的係Chablis 的坡頂高處多為 Portlandien 時期的積岩,當時生物較少,礦物感不太突出。Chablis共有89塊,共776公頃的一級園,其中Vaillons位於西南邊,處中高坡位置。常釀出酸味強勁漂亮,細緻均衡,帶海味礦石氣。
James Suckling 93 pts
A very flinty nose with attractive yellowand white-peach aromas and a lemon and grapefruit edge, too. The palate has avery sleek and composed feel with such seamless and focused style. Very linear,plush and smoothly ripe. Drink or hold.
Vinous 93 pts
The 2017 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is denseand powerful in the glass. Notes of hard candy, almond and lemon confit cometogether in a wine of tremendous follow-through. A creamy mouthfeel leads intothe rich, textured finish. All of that density builds into aneffort less crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. This is terrific.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 92
Michel's 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is performing very well from bottle, offering up a classy bouquet of crisp white peach, orange zest, spring flowers, fresh pastry and oyster shells. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and broad, with tangy underlying acids, good concentration and tension at the core, and a long, saline finish.This is likely to prove one of the more immediate premiers crus in the range this year,as is often the case.
Burghound.com Allen Meadows 91pts
An interesting top note of white pepper adds a bit of breadth to the citrusy aromas of mineral reduction and ocean breeze although there is still some residual post-bottling sulfur so I would decant this for a few minutes first if you're tempted to try a bottle soon. The mouth feel of the middle weight flavors is notably finer though they don't possess the same density of material while the finish offers evident minerality along with fine depth and persistence. Lovely stuff.
$ 278/支
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