Reyneke Organic Syrah 2018 《醇酒系列-SA002A》

【南非Biodynamic第一家】
自然酒先鋒〰️ Reyneke 〰️

🔎去年我們在北半球發掘了Chateau Maris 比大家，今次點到輪到南半球發威了，第一家在南非行Biodynamic 釀酒並取得Demeter認證，而Demeter 也是現今有機農業當中最嚴謹要求的認証之一，Reyneke酒莊位於Stellenbosch，由型男莊主Johan Ryeneke 1998 從母親接過葡萄園Uitzicht，從1863年而開始種稙農作物，並且長久而來無用過任何化學肥料，可謂一塊自然之寶地，Johan 承接前人留落黎的「好東西」，繼續以生物動力法及可持續耕種理念去管理葡萄田，簡單得似劉華的金句: 「人品好自然牌品好」，應用在釀酒業就係維持葡萄園與及附近環境之生態平衡，若持續用化學原素去扭曲自然，只能短暫達到目的，所以Johan的釀酒理念相信最少的人為干預就能種出最好的葡萄，而最優質的葡萄就自然釀出最高品質的酒，純淨的果味帶著自然的酸度，再配合木桶的運用，定必呈現出當地風土最好的一面。以上說來簡單，但背後的堅持，需要比其他商業化酒莊付出更多的精神和汗水才能踏上自然之路，持之而恆，自然法釀酒定必交出合乎消費者期望的品質。Wine Advocate 自08年開始對Reyneke打分，對各款酒總共有38次評分當中，只有3次僅僅以89分跌出9字頭，其餘全數每年獲90分以上評分，尤其是今次介紹的Ryneke Organic Syrah ，對上一個15年更獲得RP 93分😱，望完這份亮麗的成績表後大家再碌碌酒價，然後親嘗一下酒質，就能理解到為何現今愈來愈多酒莊和釀酒師加入自然酒這行列，小編對此亦有著相同的信念👍🏻，所有高品質的Syrah（就算是相對早飲的澳州）無番幾年時間都無法馴服他的野性，唯獨是自然酒能有魔法讓新酒不新，Reyneke Syarh 的純淨度帶著北隆河自然派的影子，而望番價格只係Cote du Rhone的街坊，歡迎👏🏻酒友用相若價位其他又同是新酒 的Syrah比較一下，你就會發現自然酒可愛之處😚


📝前Wine Advocate 主編 Neal Martin 對Reyneke 的評論：
Although I have visited Reyneke Wines a few times, strangely I had never met with proprietor Johan Reyneke, until now. Once we had navigated our way up to his farmhouse, we enjoyed a lively chat on all sorts of matters both vinous and non-vinous related. There is a bit of a hippy philosophy at Reyneke that is clearly inspired by Johan and underpins their biodynamic tenets. That seems to extend to the entire farm. When I arrived he spoke to one of his locals with whom together they have started an organic vegetable enterprise. With winemaker Rudiger Gretschel they are a bit like Batman and Robin, espousing their biodynamic practices in a region that has been hidebound to traditionally and not always environmentally beneficial practices in the past. Their wines demonstrate the care they take, not infallible wines, rather honest and personality-driven wines that are distinctive, as much cerebral as sensory experiences. The big news is that the estate is finally being expanded and they had literally just signed on the acquisition of the neighboring farm that Johan has had his eye on for a while and indeed, has been farming himself for the last couple of years. So expect some expansion at Reyneke, although as Rudiger mentioned driving back: one step at a time and the outlay in securing the new land will probably stymie any investments in the near future. Still, what matters are the wines and there is plenty to enjoy. Their Syrah and Reserve White are outstanding and I was intrigued by the Reyneke Raw, a quasi-natural wine that looks very promising (although I expressed my dislike of the name and suggested something that does not imply a winemaking regime or allied to the ever-political arena of natural wines). So it may eventually be renamed and I will let readers know in my next report.

櫻桃紅酒色，開瓶一聞，帶充沛雜莓香，櫻挑、無花果再加上絲絲清雅花香，自然吸引。入口帶布冧、黑加倫子、甘草、丁香及辛香料之味。酸度適中、酒液經木桶處理過，口感絲滑圓潤，整體平衡自然，餘韻細長。