Verget Saint Veran Lieu (Inter) dit 2018 維熱酒莊聖韋朗白酒《醇酒系列-F733A》
產區/級別 : Saint Veran聖韋朗 / Mâconnais馬貢 / Bourgogne布根地
葡萄品類 : Chardonnay夏多麗
酒精度 : 14% vol
網站: https://www.verget-sa.fr/fr/content/6-verget
⭐開創先河 獨特的Chardonnay風格 在馬貢區用上橡木桶發酵培養及攪桶
⭐Jancis Robinson "因釀造出優質抵飲的布根地白酒而成名"
⭐Robert Parker "A crazy Belgian who make Macon wine as good as Puligny"
⭐著名酒評家Neal Martin婚宴採用的酒”Best value wine in France”
⭐漫畫神之水滴介紹Verget果實豐富又溫和纖細的Chablis
⭐ Saint Veran 最優質地段
🏆 Wine Advocate 93 pts
"Before Guffens, no one knew that Mâcon Peirreclos or even Pouilly-Fuissé could rival Corton-Charlemagne or Bâtard Montrachet. Now they do."
Andrew Jefford, The New France
"This peerless winemaker has surpassed himself with recent vintages."
Bettane & Desseauve, The World’s Greatest Wines
🧑🏻Jean-Marie Guffens 是位能夠將名氣不大的Macon 白酒提升🙌🏻到其他頂級白酒產區水平的釀酒師，酒莊的Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon曾被📖漫畫神之水滴推薦，在云云價格高得離地的布根地白酒當中，Verget的出現証明布根地仍然有平靚正之選❣️
因為葡萄園的Climat 名稱 Le Cote Rotie 跟北隆的 Cote Rotie 相似，故為免混淆，Jean-MarieGuffens 用上了 Lieu (Inter)dit ，即解作Forbidden place — 被禁止的地方。Masion Verget 雖是酒商，但由有” Master in the art of Chardonnay “之稱的Jean-Marie Guffens主理確實有別與一般的酒商酒，他會親自巡視合約葡萄農的葡萄園，以確保栽種方法和質量合乎要求，優選葡萄園的位置，奉行低產量，依重老樹🌴，所以他家的白酒出品質量永遠不會令到酒友擔心，這款混了Le Cote Rotie 和Les Terres Noires兩塊Climat的葡萄， Les Terres Noires 擁有該區的老樹🌴，為酒體提供了豐富的口感，而Le Cote Rotie 的風土則提供了優良的礦物感 只用上 freerun juice，富強度且集中，陳放在橡木桶7個月，帶檸檬🍋、菠蘿🍍、熱情果，有 Chassagne Montrachet 的成熟熱帶水果氣息，Mesurault 的牛油Cremay 口感，也有Puligny Montrachets靈巧的酸度和Chablis 的礦物感😆問你服未？
此酒2019 年產量因霜害只有平均的一半，但價格就維持不變，而家唔入手等幾時？買6支現在飲又得，放2-3年更得，得左👍🏻
背景
Guffens 釀酒理念強調純淨 Purity ，在沒有他出現，無人會相信 Macon的白酒能夠足以與名區 Corton-Charlemagne ，Batard Montrachet Meursault 及 Puligny Montrachet 匹敵，Robert Parker 初試他的白酒就直接形容：「A crazy Belgian who make Macon wine as good as Puligny )，酒評家普遍認為Verget白酒有著純淨的果香，並且能夠忠實反映出產區特性。
「Classy but keenly priced white Burgundy isn't easy to come by these days, so we should all be thankful for the Maison Verget. These wines come warmly recommended.” 」William Kelly—The Wine Advocate
「Don't buy Verget wines looking for the kind of cheese paste, farm straw richness of traditional "funky" white Burgundy; these are white wines made with the kind of ravishing purity, compelling sensual austerity more familiar among the greatest winemakers of the Saar, the Ruwer, or Alsace.” That pretty much sums things up.」Andrew Jefford — Decanter 編輯
在Burgundy酒商們，Verget 的 Jean-Marie Guffens 是白手興家之一的傳奇人物，1976年夫婦二人 Main 與 Jean Marie 從比利時來到布根地，並在學習法文當中愛上葡萄酒，其後在 馬貢的Maine 村一家酒莊幫忙並學習栽種，用了手上僅餘的幾百法郎積蓄在Maconnais的 Vergisson 買下一塊小莊園成立 Domaine Guffens-Heynen ，憑著其認真的釀酒態度和出色的手藝，超乎常人的辛勤，不用化學肥料、採用天然酵母山、降低產量、不過濾，保留風土的純淨度，Domaine Guffens-Heynen 名聲漸漸上升，1991年Guffens成立了Maison Verget，開始收購葡萄進行釀造。Verget全系列的產品都是白葡萄酒，幾乎覆蓋整個布根地，雖然不是 Domaine酒，但Guffens對原料絶不鬆懈，合約的葡萄農必須係低產量，最成熟的時候採收，更會經常檢查葡萄酒農有否按照他的要求栽種葡萄，Guffens被稱為布根地中最辛勤工作之一，在 Chablis葡萄農眼中，Jean-Marie Guffens “They are one-eyed kings in the land of the blind “ 稱讚Guffens的眼光和天份。
” Jean-Marie Guffens 現年65歲，出名不跟規矩，往往給人意想不到。早年一開始探用伯恩丘的釀酒方式，如橡木桶發酵及培養又攪桶 on lees來釀造馬貢區的白酒，因此引來許多的注意。因為偏好較高海拔的葡萄園以保有更多的酸味，配合馬貢區更為圓潤的口感，以及木桶發酵所增添的香氣與厚實質地，形成了一種相當獨特的Chardonnay夏多內風格。他的成功也啟發了許多追隨者，如 Olivier Merlin、 Jean Rijckaert，和夏布利的 Patrick Piuze 都已經開設自己的酒莊。”by 林裕森
在漫畫神之水滴 Verget 的一級田Chablis 在第3集登場，用被稱為「魔術師」的白葡萄品種 Chardonnay 在釀造，果實豐富又溫和、纖細的Chablis。今次推薦是他的大區酒 Chablis Cuvee de la Butte
「Classy but keenly priced white Burgundy isn't easy to come by these days, so we should all be thankful for the Maison Verget. These wines come warmly recommended.” 」William Kelly—The Wine Advocate
著名酒評家Neal Martin婚宴用酒Best value wine in France by Neal Martin Vinous
Guffens never became a successful actor because he could not follow a script – and so he became a winemaker who could not follow a script. How perverse that a man with a trenchant dislike for rules ended up in a country whose wine industry is hidebound by them. His career has been spent rubbing people the wrong way, whether it is fellow winemakers, the press or business partners. The one constant throughout has been the quality of his wines. However much you might disagree with his views or smart at his opinions, you cannot argue when you take that first sip. Then factor in that these wines continue to be sold at prices that embarrass those asked for a swath of white burgundy, and – to use one of Parker’s expressions – it’s a no-brainer.
My nuptials proved that you don’t have to spend a fortune to have a great, memorable wedding; it’s about using what you’ve got. This is how Guffens operates. He does not need a prestigious vineyard – just give him some decent vines with decent terroir and he will turn out a delicious and occasionally profound wine. Guffens’ acting teacher quickly identified his personality, rebellious nature, inability to keep still and aversion to being told what to do. Scripts are useless for Jean-Marie Guffens. Only fate could ultimately determine his career – which happened to be in wine – much to the benefit of the Mâconnais. Long may the bad boy continue making mischief.
因釀造出優質抵飲的布根地白酒而成名By Jancis Robinson
Guffens began his winemaking career in the Mâconnais, known for producing poor man’s white burgundy well to the south of the hallowed Côte d’Or. He was later to venture northwards to make some wine on the ‘golden slope’ and a considerable quantity of Chablis under his Verget négociant label, but you could say that his mission in life has been to prove that Mâconnais whites can be better than those from such famous white wine villages as Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. This tasting of his exceptionally nervy, long-lived wines to a large extent confirmed his hypothesis.
He told the story, with delight, of how the famous American wine critic Robert Parker wrote in 1983 about a crazy Belgian who makes Mâcon wine as good as Puligny. Two weeks later when Parker visited him, Guffens told him that this was an awful thing to say. ‘I just want to be me and make wine my way. Art is not to be compared.’
SAINT-VÉRAN“ LIEU（INTER）DIT”-2019
與往年一樣，這精選主要來自Davayé 的Côte Rôtie，是SAINT-VÉRAN區內最美麗的風土區之一，又稱為“黑土地”(Terres Noire)。生產出豐富而帶張力和礦物質感的葡萄酒。
2019年，像往常一樣，集中度非常好。僅用free run葡萄汁生產。並用上25％新酒桶進行釀造。酒精發酵一直進行到12月底。約7個月的on lees攪桶。
這酒非常果香，帶有淡淡的香草香氣，然後還有紫羅蘭，白桃和梨的香氣。口感非常濃密，開始時非常有力。餘韻特別長。礦物結構，確實延長了長度。
🏆 Wine Advocate 93 pts
Aromas of confit citrus, lemon oil and fresh peach mingling with notes of almond paste and honey introduce the 2018 Saint-Véran Lieu (Inter)dit, a medium to full-boded, ample and satiny wine with excellent concentration, a lively spine of acidity and a penetrating, elegantly saline finish. It's another superb rendition of this routinely excellent cuvée.
