Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2014 拉魄斯莊園科爾登特級園比森地園《風土系酒款 - TF819》

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 一直是藏家這幾十年來布根地的收藏臻品，能夠充分展現布根地神聖的風土。酒莊始於1964年，位於 Volnay 村內的一家頂尖的代表酒廠之一，早在1855年這塊田 En Bousse d'Or曾與特級園 Clos de Tart 同屬 DRC 前主人Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet 所有，後來由傳奇釀酒師 Gerard Potel 從中收購將其打造成了 Volnay 村內的明星酒莊，後來 Gérard Potel過世後由企業家 Patrick Landanger 於1997年購入。新主人Patrick Landanger 原本打算聘請專人打理，曾一度不滿意而換掉5位釀酒師，後來決定親自接任釀酒師，去到 Beaune 學習釀酒，隨後在 Puligny-Montrachet, Corton, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de la Roche, 購入名園，包括世紀名園愛侶園 Les Amoureuses, Bonnes-Mares, Chevalier-Montrachet 等特級園，如今莊園由17公頃經過生物動力法種植的葡萄園組成，包括5個特級園，11個一級園，其中3個是獨佔園Clos de la Bousse d'Or, Clos des 60 Ouvrées, Clos d'Audignac，成為同時在 Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune 擁有多塊優質葡萄園的重量級酒莊。

在葡萄園管理上，Domaine de la Pousse d'Or早在Nicolas Potel 時期已經舖下了 Bio-dynamic 的方向，其後Patrcik 跟隨，所有葡萄園工作都按著陰曆行事，2012 年所有葡萄園全面施行生物動力法 ，到 2018 年終取得 Demeter 認証，葡萄園多年不使用任何殺蟲除草劑。而酒莊更添置光學篩選葡萄機器 Vistalys ，全布根地只有三家釀做者擁有，分別係 Louis Jadot 、Vincent Girardin 及 Pousse d'Or ，這台機器的造價由港幣五六十萬到過百萬不等，足見証 Patrick 對 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or 投資的力度。

🏅  Allen Meadows 94 pts

This isearthier and a good deal more sauvage as well with its cool and well-layeredand deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, dark pinot, humus and freshly turnedearth. There is outstanding volume and plenty of mid-palate concentration tothe more lightly mineral-inflected broad-shouldered flavors that possess avelvety mouth feel before culminating in a moderately austere and firmlystructured finale. While this is an elegant Corton it remains a Corton and thusis definitely going to require at least 7 to 8 years of patience first.

🏅  Vinous 90-92 pts

Deep ruby-red. Very ripe but reticentaromas of smoke, mocha and incense, plus a piquant suggestion of blood peach.Very sweet and silky but still with a touch of reduction to the dark berry andviolet flavors. Underlying minerality gives the palate good definition. Besttoday on the energetic, rising finish, which shows a delightful light touch.

🏅  Wine Advocate 90-92 pts

The 2014 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru, fromthe domaine's 0.48 hectares of vines planted between 1956 and 1994, has acorrect, foursquare, tertiary bouquet with touches of autumn leaves over theblack fruit. The palate is nicely structured and welcoming on the entry, thanksto its supple tannin and well judged acidity. There is a touch of piquancy hereas it fans out towards the finish with hints of black pepper and allspice; itis not a long Corton-Bressandes, but clean and detailed. I am intrigued howthis will show in bottle.

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