Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2016 男爵酒莊副牌 Pauillac 《風土系列 - TF1035》

🏅VIVINO 4.0

波爾多頭號酒商皮埃爾德梅茲·侯贊（Pierre Desmezures de Rauzan）一手掌管拉圖、瑪歌兩大酒莊，並在1689年購置了毗鄰拉圖酒莊的葡萄園，創建了侯贊酒莊（Enclos Rauzan）。1694年，侯贊的千金特麗莎（Thérèse）與雅克·碧尚龍格維爾男爵（JacquesPichon de Longueville）締結良緣，侯贊酒莊的葡萄園成為特麗莎的嫁妝，碧尚龍格維爾莊園　(Domainede Pichon Longueville)應運而生。這個卓越的酒莊後來在碧尚·龍格維爾家族世代傳承，其聲譽歷久不衰。1850年，碧尚龍格維爾莊園一分為二，拉烏爾·碧尚德龍格維爾男爵（Raoul Pichonde Longueville）繼承的部分即是如今的男爵古堡（Pichon Baron）。另一半由其3位姊妹繼承，後來成為女爵酒莊（Pichon Comtesse）。酒莊的近代史是在1987年保險集團 AXA 入主了男爵，而技術總監Jean-Rene Matignon 亦相繼加入，AXA斥資進行城堡的復興，將發酵車間和酒窖全面重新改造，城堡也加以翻新，並於2006年完成了興建地下酒窖， 男爵遵循波亞克Pauillac上乘葡萄酒傳統工藝，亦因被酒友經常評為可媲美一級莊的 Super Second，超二級莊。

酒莊有兩款副牌為Les Griffons de Pichon Baron & Les Tourelles de Longueville，而Les Griffons de Pichon Baron是2012年首次推出，其風格比Les Tourelles de Longueville更接近正牌，葡萄產自砂礫含量較高的土壤。在發酵期間，酒莊每天都會對每個發酵罐進行監測，以精准把控葡萄酒的品質，酒精發酵完成後進行蘋果酸-乳酸發酵（Malolactic Fermentation），之後葡萄酒便會進入橡木桶陳年，陳年過程中每3-4個月會澄清一次，以分離葡萄酒液與沉澱物，並通過蠟燭檢查酒液的澄清度，於橡木桶陳年18個月，其中60%為全新橡木桶，40%為陳年過1年酒的橡木桶。

🏅Wine Advocate 93 - 95 pts

It has a very pure and detailed bouquet with blackberry, briary, cold stone and graphite aromas. This seems to meliorate in glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannin, a Griffons that is nimble and agile, the finish very precise with an almost clinical graphite-tinged finish. This is superb.

🏅James Suckling 93 pts

Attractive, modern style with assorted, ripe summer berries, layered with upbeat, toasty oak. The palate is fresh and gently muscular tannins serve this wine well.

🏅Vinous 91 pts

The 2016 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron is quite powerful and dense. Aging, and specifically, the barrel regime of 18 months in oak (60% new) has left the 2016 with a heavy toast/torrefaction quality that at present overpowers the dark fruit and Cabernet aromatics the wine showed from barrel.

🏅Wine Spectator 91 pts

This is fleshy and caressing in feel, letting warm plum sauce and cassis notes roll along, lined with pretty violet and anise accents. There's a light tug of earth through the gently toasty finish, but this is pretty much all fruit and is ready to go.

🏅Jeb Dunnuck 93 pts

It’s also deeply colored, offers classic Pauillac aromatics, and possesses a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, backward vibe that’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age.

🏅Decanter 91 pts

This is closer to the signature of the grand vin than that of the Tourelles de Longueville as it comes from soil with a higher gravel content. Beautiful, rich dark purple in colour from a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot, a more classic interpretation of a Médoc second wine than Les Tourelles. This is gorgeous, with a sense of restraint behind the deep, plump fruit. 18 months in 60% new oak reinforces the silky tannins. I like this very much.