Thierry Violot Guillemard Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 2016 薇奧羅-吉爾馬酒莊 玻瑪村 一級園 洛吉恩園《風土系列-TF643》

Thierry Violot Guillemard Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 2016薇奧羅-吉爾馬酒莊 玻瑪村 一級園 洛吉恩園《風土系列-TF643 》

產區/級別 : Les Rugiens/ Pommard 1er Cru /Bourgogne

葡萄品類 : Pinot Noir黑皮諾

酒精度 :13% vol

官方網站： www.violot-guillemard.fr

⭐低調優質小農 車禍重傷後與酒莊一起重生

⭐不過份人工添加 著重風土的純淨表達

⭐5代傳承酒莊

⭐自1999年開始有機種植

⭐以一級園價錢一嘗明日的特級園Les Rugiens

⭐6公頃8款酒 每年只產40,000支 只有1/4 出口世界各地

⭐布根地大師Jasper Morris MW便曾評價Les Rugiens為Pommard最優秀的葡萄園 

"What most commentators believe to be Pommard's finest vineyard - Les Rugiens!" 

⭐WA布根地產區評論家William Kelley的長年鍾愛的酒莊之一

"I have been admirer of Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard since I discovered their wine."

⭐布根地專家Allen Meadows極力讚賞此年為頂級典型佳作

"This is a classic Rugiens and built like one as well."

🏅 Vinous 94 pts

🏅 Allen Meadows 91 - 94 pts

背景

Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard位於Burgundy Cote de Beaune Pommard，是該產區內一座家族式的精品酒莊。酒莊經過5代人的傳承，現今由Thierry Violot-Guillemard負責經營管理。Thierry於1978年加入酒莊，擁有接近40年的葡萄種植和釀酒經驗。作為上一任莊主的兒子，Thierry從父親那裡繼承了幾座始建於1936年的優質葡萄園。1987年，Thierry曾因嚴重車禍徘徊死亡邊緣，亦造成腳部有的傷患，經歷了整整2年時間留院及73次手術，在漫長的康復期後才能再次投入葡萄園工作，痊癒後Thierry對生命有了新的認知。同時對葡萄園實展了有機及生物動力耕作法，從此為葡萄園注入生命力，更著重自然，呈現在地風土的特質。而著名布根地酒評家Allen Meadows就話” "an outstanding line-up of wines at the upper level.," and Thierry as, "a man who is always upbeat." 以形容酒莊多個酒款全屬優質高層次質素，而莊主本人Thierry，就是不倒翁一樣堅韌。

這款Les Rugiens，平衡樹齡7年，酒莊秉承布根地地區傳統的釀酒工藝，葡萄酒採用天然酵母菌發酵，熟化(Ageing)時較少使用新橡木桶，且裝瓶前不下蛋白、不澄清，儘量將人工干預的水準降至最低，以保留葡萄酒天然的風味。低溫浸皮和入50%新橡木桶，熟化14-18個月。目前，酒莊6公頃葡萄園，8款酒，每年只產40,000瓶，當中只有1/ 4 出口。今次亦只返了極少數量。

酒莊的葡萄園一共有9座，分佈在Cote de Beaune Pommard、Volnay、Meursault、Monthelie、Beaune。5個村莊，總面積為5公頃。其中，風土尤為出色的要數位於玻瑪村的三座一級園——洛吉恩園（Les Rugiens）、普拉帝園（La Platiere）以及德里聖讓園（Clos Derriere Saint-Jean）。這些葡萄園內的土壤多為排水性良好的黏質石灰岩，園內種植著的黑皮諾（Pinot Noir）葡萄樹的平均樹齡已接近60年。從1999年起，酒莊嚴格按照有機種植法的標準來管理葡萄園，致力於實現葡萄園的可持續發展。

Rouge​ 

Pommard Derriere St-Jean Monopole

Pommard Epenots

Pommard Rugiens

Pommard La Platiere

Monthelie Les Duresses

Beaune Clos des Mouches

Auxey-Duresses Reugnes

Blanc

Beaune Clos des Mouches

Les Rugiens 明日的GrandCru

南邊靠近Volnay村的Les Rugiens和北邊靠近伯恩市的Epenots，是村內最知名的兩片一級園，如果將來有任何升級特級園的可能，應該不出這兩園。Les Rugiens又細分上坡Les Rugiens Hauts 及下坡Les Rugiens Bas。上坡Les Rugiens Hauts較斜陡，灰白土壤，釀成的酒較均衡。而下坡釀出的酒則較厚重。

🏅Wine Advocate 94 pts

Notes of dark wild berries, licorice, baking chocolate, rich soil tones and black truffles introduce the 2016 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, a medium to full-bodied wine that's broader and more enveloping than this year's Epenots, with a muscular chassis of powdery tannins, fine concentration, lively acids and good length on the finish. It's less dramatic than the 2015 rendition but may well be just as good in the fullness of time.

I have been an admirer of Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard since I discovered their wines by chance as a student, and while this small six-hectare estate still flies under the radar, it's only a matter of time until it becomes better known. Classical winemaking, sometimes incorporating a percentage of whole cluster, followed by long élevage, is the order of the day, Thierry Violot-Guillemard emphasizing that he makes his wines exactly as his father did. His son Joannes, who now takes an active role at the domaine, has refined some of the cooperage choices while happily remaining true to the house style. Readers who admire age-worthy, complex Côte de Beaune reds should beat a path to this address. While looking at a selection of the domaine's 2017s, I also revisited their 2016s, which I missed tasting on my last trip to Burgundy.

🏅Vinous 94 pts

The 2016 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru is blessed with a glorious bouquet with vivacious black and red fruit laced with pressed iris petals and faint marine/estuarine aromas. Wonderful definition and real panache is evident. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and very fine tannin. The acidity is extremely well judged and lends the finish a sense of symmetry and poise that is beguiling. This comes highly recommended. 

🏅Allen Meadows 91-94 pts 

Here too the wood treatment is reasonably subtle though by no means invisible on the wonderfully fresh and broad-ranging aromas of red cherry, currant, violet and lavender. The middle weight flavors are not quite as concentrated as those of the Epenots but they compensate by being more precise, mineral-driven and powerful, all wrapped in a firm and serious but not particularly austere finish that delivers sneaky good length. This is a classic Rugiens and built like one as well.

$668/支

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