Chateau Branaire Ducru 2003 周伯通 Saint Julien列級莊四級莊《風土系列 - TF1025A》

Branaire-Ducru是出色的譯作，中文名取自金庸筆下的小說人物「周伯通」！更曾得金庸賜墨寶，並印在限量版酒標上！

事源法國波爾多Château Branaire-Ducru出品是國泰航空頭等艙的餐酒，國泰於2006年為這枝酒舉辦了一次中文命名大賽，飲食界名人蔡瀾、陳任、劉致新、郭偉信、紀曉華以及黃德如等人擔任評判。結果由區樹芬女士以「周伯通」奪魁。原來，她除了是紅酒愛好者，也愛金庸先生的武俠小說，因而靈機一觸。無論國泰還是酒莊方面都對這個譯名非常滿意。所以，有關單位更邀得金庸大筆一揮、惠賜墨寶，並將其提字印在酒標上，發售100枝限量版2000年「周伯通」。當時每枝約3000，並將收入捐往慈善用途。

【波爾多列級莊．老顏童周伯通正牌】

Chateau Branaire Ducru 在17世紀時，是四級酒莊龍船莊園(ChateauBeychevelle) 的一部分。後來賣給了Jean-Baptiste Braneyre。 Braneyre的女兒Marie嫁給了Pierre de luc，也是後來莊園名字中Duluc的由來。後代建築城堡來紀念祖先，並把莊園命名為Chateau Braneyre (Branaire)。1855年被評為四級名莊。

1875年Gustave Ducru和姊姊Zelie Ravez共同經營莊園。之後Gustave獲得姐姐的股份，成為莊園的獨有者。1879年Gustave去世後莊園重歸Zelie所有，並更名為Chateau Branaire-Ducru。 1899年Zelie將莊園傳承給三位侄子：Carbonnier de Marzac、Ravez、Perier de Larsan。後來酒莊再由家族合力管理，酒標上的皇冠就是代表了當時的成員。 1919年整個莊園被Jean-Michel Tapie收購後經營並不成功，直到1988年Patrick Maroteaux購得莊園後才得以改善。依循傳統的釀造方式，注重風土條件。另外創造副牌Duluc de Branaire-Ducru，並維持一定之水準。

此酒莊的葡萄酒對葡萄酒愛好者的吸引力往往多過投資者對其的興趣。現任莊主Patrick Maroteaux認為St Julien聖祖利安紅酒應該平衡細緻，必須具備純淨果味，所以堅持以最溫柔的萃取方法釀製紅酒。他接手後投入大量資金改進釀酒設施，並減低葡萄樹產量，維持果實的濃郁度。周伯通酒莊是波爾多區內最早使用重力處理法的酒莊之一，避免使用泵和過量新木桶，每一塊地的果實都會獨立釀製，確保每一桶酒都在最理想情況下生產。自2000年開始，周伯通紅酒質素愈來愈好，但售價卻維持中等，是波爾多列級酒莊中非常實惠的一家。

周伯通有正牌酒Chateau Branaire-Ducru和副牌酒Duluc de Branaire Ducru，兩者都以赤霞珠（Cabernet Sauvignon）和梅洛（Merlot）為主要品種，副牌酒則勾兌入較多年輕樹苗種出果實，複雜性自然以正牌酒最佳，陳年能力達三十年；副牌酒則毋需陳那麼多年，適合較早飲用，八至十年已經是適飲期。

實試紀錄: 典型的老波風韻，紫羅蘭花香，香氣充滿濕地菇菌氣息，入口帶黑苺，煙燻，烤肉感，茶葉和少許鐡锈味道，經年月磨滑的單寜柔滑卻維持一定力度，03熱年的周八通酒體較前後年份雄渾，果感會強一些，現已非常適飲，建議醒酒時間3小時。

🏅James Suckling 94 points

Extremely perfumed, with currants, blackberries, and flowers on the nose. Full bodied, with a solid core of beautiful fruit and super chewy, yet polished tannins. This is a brick house. 

🏅Wine Advocate 94 points 

This fully mature, gorgeous 2003 Branaire Ducru possesses silky tannins, lots of cedary, spice box, floral, black cherry, forest floor and velvety leather-like notes, full body, and an opulent, complex yet elegant style. A beauty of complexity, richness and finesse. (RP) 

🏅Wine Spectator 93 points

Opulent aromas of blackberry, olives and toasted oak follow through to a full-bodied palate, with big chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Big and muscular wine. 

🏅Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 92 points

Sexy aromas of raspberry, mocha and milk chocolate. Fat, sweet, rich and full; a large-scaled, seamless wine with terrific volume. Just a hint of exotic roasted character on the palate-caressing finish. As appealing as this is right now, it appears to be shutting down in the bottle.

🏅Vinous 92 points

Bright ruby-red. Intense mocha and sweet spice notes complicate ripe dark cherry and macerated plum aromas on the very ripe, deep nose. Large-scaled and plush, with ripe but not cooked red and black fruit flavors. Surprisingly lively acidity and seamless tannins give the wine good support. Finishes creamy and long, with a repeating note of mocha. For the most part I am not a fan of the 2003 Bordeaux owing to the furnace-like summer, but the Branaire-Ducru is a knockout and owner Patrick Maroteaux has always told me he thinks it's one of the best wines he has ever made. Not surprisingly in 2003, the grapes were harvested much earlier and faster than usual, between September 9 and 24. 

🏅Wine Enthusiast 91 points

One of the great estates of southern Saint-Julien, producing wines whose regularity in succeeding vintages is remarkable. For 2003, Branaire has produced a dark wine, with dry, powerful tannins coming from very ripe fruit. The wood is dry and toasty, leaving a general impression of a wine that will age at a stately pace.