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Taylor's 30 years Old Tawny Port 《Terroir Collection - TP761》

Taylor's 30 years Old Tawny Port 《Terroir Collection - TP761》

⭐ The Benchmark for Vintage Port
⭐the BES Biodiversity Award in 2009
🏅 Vinous 94 pts
🏅 Wine & Spirits 93 pts
🏅 Wine Advocate 92 pts
🏅 Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 pts


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              《Terroir Collection》


Taylor's 30 years Old Tawny Port 《Terroir Collection - TP761》


Region : Douro/ Portugal

Grapes : Touriga Nacional

Alcohol : 20% vol

Website:  https://www.taylor.pt/


⭐ The Benchmark for Vintage Port

⭐ The BES Biodiversity Award in 2009

🏅 Vinous 94 pts

🏅 Wine & Spirits 93 pts

🏅 Wine Advocate 92 pts

🏅 Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 pts


Beware: Some Ports have a splash of white paint or chalk, called a “Splash Mark”, on the bottle. It tells you which way the bottles were cellared (splash mark up).  You too should then store your Port Wine with the splash of white paint uppermost. This way, all the sediment collects uniformly on the same side.



Who are Taylor?

For many, Taylor's is the archetypal Port house and its wines the quintessential Ports. Established over three centuries ago in 1692, Taylor's is one of the oldest of the founding Port houses. It is dedicated entirely to the production of Port wine and in particular to its finest styles. 


Above all, Taylor's is regarded as the benchmark for Vintage Port. Noted for their elegance and poise as well as for their restrained power and longevity, Taylor's Vintage Ports are blended from the finest wines of the firm's own quintas or estates, Vargellas, Terra Feita and Junco. These three iconic properties, each occupying a distinct geographic location and with their own unique character, are the cornerstone of the company's success and the main source of its unique and inimitable house style.


Taylor's is also respected as a producer of wood aged ports and holds one of the largest reserves of rare cask aged wines from which its distinguished aged tawny Ports are drawn. The house is also known as the originator of Late Bottled Vintage, a style which the firm pioneered and of which it remains the leading producer.

Above all, Taylor's is an independent company in which some family members play a leading role in all areas of the firm's activity. The firm's long and unbroken family tradition has provided continuity and clarity of purpose, essential attributes of any great wine house. It has also allowed the skills and knowledge required to produce the finest ports to be constantly refined and added to in the light of experience as they are passed down from one generation to the next.


Based in Oporto and the Douro Valley the company is closely involved in all stages of the production of its Ports, from the planting of the vineyard and the cultivation of the grapes to the making, ageing, blending and bottling of the wines. The family's commitment to the future of Port is demonstrated in its single minded dedication to the highest standards in Port production, its continued investment in all aspects of the firm's operations and its determination to preserve the unique environment of the Douro Valley through the promotion of sustainable and responsible viticulture.




Sustainable Practices

We are committed to minimising the impact of our business on the environment and to adopting environmentally sustainable methods and techniques whenever possible.  In addition to our award-winning Sustainable Vineyard Model, we have made advances in such areas as renewable energy, waste management and effluent treatment and will continuously monitor and improve our performance in these and other areas.




History

Since 1692 making the history about Port Wine

Port is one of the great classic European wines and its history is a long and fascinating one, Taylor's is one of oldest and most famous producer.

1692: THE BEGINNING




Since its foundation in 1692 by Job Bearsley, the company has remained independent. Now well into its fourth century, it has thrived and prospered, establishing itself as one of the world's most respected historic wine houses. This has been achieved through the perseverance, pioneering spirit and continuity of purpose of successive generations of family involvement.

BEARSLEY YEARS

The story begins in 1692 with the arrival in Portugal of an English merchant called Job Bearsley. Little is known about the founder of the firm except that he was the owner of The Ram Inn in London's Smithfield and his family owned land in Warwickshire and Staffordshire. He did not initially trade in Port wine but in 'red Portugal, the lean and austere wine of the Minho region in the north west of the country, with its verdant landscape and humid coastal climate. The centres of this trade were the harbour city of Viana do Gastelo and the town of Mongao on the banks of the Minho River.

Job's eldest son Peter also settled in Portugal, becoming British consul in Viana Peter went a step further than his father, looking further inland to the wild and rocky hills of the upper Douro Valley, sensing that the bigger more muscular wines that were made there were more to the taste of the English market. Such a venture required determination and fortitude. Between the coast and the Douro Valley rises the Serra do Marao, a vast granite mountain range, barren and inhospitable. It was a daunting journey at the best of times, on mule back and led by local guides along barely marked tracks. According to some sources, Peter Bearsley was the first member of the English wine trade to make the journey himself, other merchants being content to buy the wines of the Douro through intermediaries.


Others soon followed in Peter Bearsley's footsteps and by the time that his sons Bartholomew, Charles and Francis

joined their father in Portugal, British merchants had become a familiar sight to the farmers of the Douro Valley.

Competition between the British shippers for the best wines had become intense. In 1744 Bartholomew Bearsley became the first British wine shipper to buy a property in the Douro. It was a bold move and gave him great advantage,allowing him to build relationships with the farmers and secure the first pick of their wines. The property, at Lugar das Lages near the old town of Regua, is still owned by the company and its purchase is commemorated in Taylor's First Estate Reserve Port. During the Peninsular Wars the house on the property, known as the Casa dos Alambiques ('House of the Still') was used briefly as a field hospital for the troops of General Wellesley, later Duke of Wellington.

Francis Bearsely outlived all his brothers and remained a partner in the Oporto house for 61 years from 1744 until his death in 1805 and in the London branch of the firm for 26 years from 1772 to 1798. During this long tenure he not only consolidated the gains of the first three generations but also steered the company through times of turbulence and change. These included the crisis years of the 1750s culminating in the creation by the Marquis of Pombal in 1756 of a monopoly company to regulate the Port trade.


1720's

First Port wine merchant to visit Douro Valley

According to some sources, Peter Bearsley was the first member of the English wine trade to make the journey himself, other merchants being content to buy the wines of the Douro through intermediaries.

1744

Bartholomew Bearsley became the first British wine shipper to buy a property in the Douro. It was a bold move and gave him great advantage, allowing him to build relationships with the farmers and secure the first pick of their wines. The property, at Lugar das Lages near the old town of Régua, is still owned by the company and its purchase is commemorated in Taylor's First Estate Reserve Port.




JOSEPH CAMO

When Francis Bearsley died, the company abruptly ran out of suitable family members to run it. Three of his sons-in-law became partners but none of them were qualified to lead the company. Dr Edward Whitaker Gray was the most distinguished of the three, a surgeon-turned-botanist who held important positions in such institutions as the British Museum and the Royal Society. He played little part in the company beyond persuading it to trade in some medicines. His son,Francis Gray, who died at the age of 30, was a partner in the Oporto house but spent most of his time in London.


This situation might have been disastrous as these were the years of the peninsular campaigns of the Napoleonic Wars. By 1808 the French army was fast advancing through Spain and there was a rush to make British possessions safe by transferring ownership to a friendly non-British company or, in the case of the wines, to arrange shipment to Britain. Fortunately, the firm's Oporto employees included an enterprising American of Turkish descent called Joseph Camo. As an American citizen the French would not regard him as an enemy and possessions entrusted to his care stood a chance of being left alone. In his book Oporto Old and New, published in 1899, the historian of the Port trade Charles Sellers describes Camo as 'a typical American, a man full of energy, fertile in resource and never wanting in pluck, three qualities absolutely indispensable in those distressful days'. The company recognised that Camo was vital to its survival and awarded him a one- sixth share in the Oporto partnership in return for his remaining in Oporto to run the company after all the British merchants had left.

Camo's first challenge was to arrange for as much wine as possible to be shipped to Britain. In December 1808 Napoleon occupied Madrid and given the ease of his progress, few ship owners or captains were keen to sail to Oporto.Three ships did eventually arrive with orders to collect 632 pipes of Port, including some consignments from other British-owned houses. But when they reached Oporto they were unable to tie up at the quayside. It was now February 1809 and torrential rain, combined with snow melt further upriver, had swelled the river to a flood and the sand bar at the entrance to the estuary was blocked by fallen trees and other debris. On 17th March Camo finally succeeded in loading the vessels but they remained unable to reach open sea. On 29th March the French army reached Oporto. The French troops did their best to loot the three vessels, which remained at anchor in the river, but were defeated by the size of the barrels. Eight pipes belonging to Offley were taken and one and a half pipes belonging to Webb, Campbell,Gray & Camo, the name under which the company was then known. In June British forces commanded by Lord Arthur Wellesley took Oporto in a swift and dramatic victory and in July the three ships finally docked safely at Portsmouth.


The enterprising Mr Camo continued to buy wine up until six days before the French entered Oporto and resumed business 21 days after Wellesley's troops retook the city. None of the partners in other British houses would return for one or two years so he had a clear field. The year of 1809, which could have proved disastrous for the company, was instead one of great success. 

From 1808 to 1811 Camo was the only working partner in the Oporto house. With peace established, he began to enjoy the fruits of his new position. He became a member of the Factory House, the building where the British Port shippers had their association and which they had re- occupied in November 1811 However, in 1812 he resigned his partnership to pursue other interests, heading for London and then to France where he died in 1816.




JOSEPH TAYLOR

As well as giving the firm its current name, Joseph Taylor performed a pivotal role in the company's history.His tenure bridged the gap between the Bearsley era and the arival of the Yeatmans whose descendants own and run the company today.

At the time of Camo's departure from Oporto, Joseph Taylor had already been a manager in the London office for a decade. He had been in frequent correspondence with Camo during the French occupation and was familiar with the workings of the Oporto company. Little is known of Joseph Taylor's background but Charles Sellers describes him as 'familiar with the language of [Portugal], the people and their habits' His correspondence suggests that he was a competent administrator with a meticulous eye for detail. No one in the company was better prepared to take over from Camo.


In 1813 Francis Gray, already in poor health, accompanied him to Portugal. On Francis Gray's death in 1814 Joseph Taylor was made a partner. In 1824 the British economy slumped and the remaining partners were ageing and in poor health. In 1826 the London partnership went into liquidation and the only surviving son-in-law, Charles Campbell, was forced to give up his share in the Oporto firm. As a result Joseph Taylor became sole owner of the firm in Portugal and started up his own London company, Joseph Taylor Port & Brandy Merchants, later merging the two businesses. Having started as an office manager, he was now a substantial wine merchant.

Under Joseph Camo's management, the firm had diversified succesfully into the trading of dry goods. This had benefited the company for several years when a shortage of brandy limited the amount of Port that could be made. However Joseph Taylor steered the company firmly back towards Port and ensured that in this new, expansionist century, Taylor's reputation for quality would be unassailable. He was not, however, to see much of the new century himself. By 1835 his health had begun to fail and he had begun to address the question of succession. His choice fell on two enterprising members of the wine trade. One was Morgan Yeatman, a wine merchant from Dorchester in the south west of England who had been a customer of Taylor's for many years. The other was John Fladgate, a contact of Joseph Taylor's agent Matthew Clark who was trading as a wine merchant in London.




JOHN FLADGATE

John Fladgate was the first of the new partners to move to Oporto, arriving in 1836. In 1838 a partnership deed was signed in Oporto between John Fladgate and Morgan Yeatman and the firm adopted its present name of Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman. John Fladgate's overriding passion was viticulture. In 1844 he bought the magnificent estate of Quinta da Roeda for the firm and began to divide his time between the estate and Oporto. John Fladgate focused on the quality of the wine, Morgan Yeatman on developing the business.

The acquisition of Quinta da Roeda, one of the finest vineyards in the Douro, was a shrewd move and the quality of its wine further enhanced the firm's reputation. But then disaster struck: first oidium in 1851 and then phylloxera after 1872.


The Upper Douro was worse affected by phylloxera than the Lower Douro. By 1881 properties that had previously yielded a hundred pipes were producing just three.

John Fladgate's passion for the Douro Valley turned to determination that it should survive. His extensive research into phylloxera was summarised in his open letter of advice to the Douro farmers, O Phylloxera no Alto-Douro. In 1872, in recognition of his services to viticulture, he was given the title of Barao da Roeda. He was also made a Comendador da Ordem de Cristo. He also investigated alternative crops that could replace the revenue lost through the damage to the vineyards, including the breeding of silkworms.


In 1862 John Fladgate bought Roeda from the company for himself and in 1889, after the death of his only son Francis and of Morgan Yeatman Jr, he sold Roeda to the house of Croft for £7,000. After his retirement the Fladgate male line in the company came to an end and it was Morgan Yeatman Jr's sons Harry and Frank who would lead the firm into the 20th century. However, four of John Fladgate's daughters married leaders of the Port trade. One of them, Helen, married Pedro Gongalves Guimaraens of Fonseca whose distant cousin, David Guimaraens, is today Taylor's head winemaker.

Another became the wife of the second son of Baron Forrester, the legendary figure who created the first detailed map of the Douro Valley.




YEATMAN ERA

At the end of the 19th century the Upper Douro was a desolate place. So many vines had been destroyed by phylloxera that most Port wine, even most Vintage Port, was sourced from the Lower Douro. But the Upper Douro was the only place for high quality Port and if Taylor's was to maintain its top-ranking position it needed an estate there to replace Roeda. By now a solution to phylloxera一grafting onto American rootstock - had been found, offering a degree of security to those with the determination and funds to invest in vineyards.

Nevertheless such investors were rare and even today the hllsides of the Upper Douro are blemished by mortorios ('dead vineyards'), old stone terraces, broken down and overgrown, that were simply abandoned when the vines died. The vineyard eventually chosen was Quinta de Vargellas. Its acquisition proved to be one of the most significant and auspicious episodes in Taylor's history. L ocated in the Douro Superior on the remote eastern reaches of the Portuguese Douro,Vargellas had acquired a reputation as the source of the finest Port wines as early the 1820s. Today it ranks among the great vineyards of the world.


Notwithstanding the outstanding reputation of the Vargellas wines, the acquisition was a bold step for the firm as phylloxera had wrought havoc on the property. By the time of the purchase, the production of its vineyards is recorded as having fallen to only about four pipes.The monumental task of rebuilding Vargellas fell to Frank Yeatman, the key figure in the history of the firm in the first half of the 20th century. Nicknamed 'Smiler', he was a formidable Port wine taster. Grandson of the first Yeatman partner, he was the first member of the family to live and work more or less permanently in the Douro. He supervised the making of the wine while his brother, Harry Yeatman, was based in London looking after sales. Smiler was a much-loved figure, tall, charming and diffident He calmly steered the company through two world wars and periods of great political and financial instability. Without him it is not clear that the company would have survived those troubled times. His other passions were golf (not perhaps an ideal game if you live in the Douro) and Ceylon tea which he shipped in by the chest every year.

In 1919 Harry died and neither of his sons wanted a partnership, so Smiler briefly became the sole owner. The London house closed and from that point the company was run solely from Portugal. However Smiler's son Dick was keen to join the firm. He studied at Montpellier in France, the first British Port wine shipper to qualify there as a viticulturist. He joined the company at the same time as his cousin Stanley Yeatman From 1923 the company was managed by Dick and Stanley under the experienced and benign guidance of Smiler, a successful partnership that would continue until the latter's retirement at the end of 1949. By the end of his career Smiler had been responsible for no fewer than 50 Port harvests.


Under the leadership of Dick and Stanley the business thrived. Both had a keen interest in viticulture and in implementing new ideas. In 1927 at Quinta de Vargellas they created the first varietal blocks, separate terraces each containing a different Douro grape variety - a revolutionary idea in a region still accustomed to mixed plantings. By fermenting the grapes separately they gained much valuable knowledge about the traditional Douro varieties and laid the foundation for Taylor's unique research library of single grape variety wines.

They also planted parts of Vargellas that had not previously been cultivated. In 1934 they introduced the first Dry White Port to the market. In 1949 they bought the Fonseca Port house. And they developed a reputation for their picnics. They and their guests would ride in barouches from the railway station at Vargellas to the quinta with old Mrs Yeatman, Smiler's widow, carried on a litter. And the picnic hampers were enormous. Ron Symington, of another Port house, was once overheard to say, 'Shall we take a picnic or sit next to the Yeatmans?'


When Stanley died suddenly in 1960 Dick bought his share and briefly became the sole owner before giving partnership participations to Bruce Guimaraens and to Huyshe Bower, a relative of the Yeatmans who had joined the firm in 1959.When Dick died in 1966, his majority share passed to his wife Beryl who shortly afterwards invited her nephew, Alistair Robertson, to join the firm.

Dick and Stanley lived well but, in the austere post war years, the expense involved in making Port wine of the finest quality was not in reality funded by sales. Taylor's had done well in the two decades leading up to the war and as a result Dick was well off and content to subsidise the firm. Although sales were slow he continued to add to the reserves of wine ageing in the company's lodges.




RECENT PAST / PRESENT

Alistair Robertson was born in Oporto in 1937 into a family with close connections with the Port wine trade.Alistair's early youth was spent in Portugal and after school in England he went on to do national service in the Scots Guards. At this time he met Gillyane Scoones,whom he was later to marry, and his future father-in- law, who was director-general of the Brewers' Society,advised him to join the brewing industry where he displayed a talent for sales and marketing.

When Beryl Yeatman issued her invitation, Alistair was therefore well qualified to take over. While the company was financially sound and had large mature stocks of Port wine and an unmatched reputation, it did not sell enough to make a reasonable trading profit.


Port wine sales generally had not recovered after the World War II and in the post war period many smaller Port firms were merged into larger ones. Alistair set about pushing through changes, induding the re-organisation of the company and a drive to increase sales. In this he was ably assisted by Huyshe Bower who sought out and developed new international business for Taylor's, reducing the firm's historic dependence on the British market and allowing it to benefit from the growing interest in fine wines in places such as North America and Asia. This pioneering work laid the foundations for the global recognition that Taylor's enjoys today.

The firm's extensive reserves of fine cask aged tawnies, built up over the years, also came into their own. In 1973 the Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP), the trade's governing body, created new rules allowing producers to state the age on the labels of old tawny Ports. Taylor's was the first major house to take advantage of this, launching a full range of 10, 20,30 and 40-Year- Old Tawnies which it continues to offer to this day.

The task of supervising the wine making and looking after Taylor's extensive Port wine stocks as well as the skilled and delicate work of making up the blends fell to Jeremy Bull, Taylor's technical director and one of the most experienced tasters in the Port trade. Jeremy Bull's involvement lasted for a quarter of a century, providing valuable continuity.

The 1970s saw the start of a revival in the market.L arger facilities were needed and in Vila Nova de Gaia new bottling facilities were built and additional lodge space acquired to accommodate the stocks of ageing Port wine needed to support the growth in sales.


Up in the Douro Valley, a new winery was constructed at Lugar das L ages, the site of Taylor's first Douro property purchased in 1744, and new vineyards were planted using modern landscaping techniques.

1974 witnessed the April revolution which brought about a change of regime in Portugal and introduced a period of political and economic turmoil, a challenging time for Taylor's and for the country as a whole.

However, the return of stability in the 1980s was followed by good years for the wine trade. Under Alistair Robertson's leadership, Taylor's focused on research into both winemaking and viticulture. Bruce Guimaraens, as estates director,played an important role in the development of the firm's quintas during this period. The advances in both wineries and vineyards, always tempered by a respect for traditional methods, bore fruit in a series of highly acdlaimed Vintage Ports including the Taylor's 1992, awarded 100 points by the influential wine critia Robert Parker.

In 1990 Bruce Guimaraens' son David joined Taylor's wine making team after graduating in oenology from Roseworthy Agricultural College in Australia. He brought with him fresh ideas gained from wine making experience in Australia,California and Oregon. The 1994 was the first Taylor declared vintage made under his supervision, another highly acclaimed 100-point wine.




PRESENT/INTO THE FUTURE

The year of 1994 saw the continuity of family management assured for a further generation with the arrival in Portugal of Adrian Bridge and his wife Natasha, Alistair and Gillyane Robertson's eldest daughter. Adrian brought with him extensive international business experience as well as leadership kills which would be vital in preparing the firm for the challenges of the 21st century. After winning the Sword of Honour at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, he had spent six years as an officer in the Queen's Dragoon Guards followed by a further six in London running the US equity sales team for NatWest Investment Bank. On his arrival in Portugal he assumed responsibility for Port sales in Britain and the USA, overseeing strong growth in both of these key markets.


Biodiversity Award

Several plots both at Quinta de Vargellas and Quinta de Terra Feita have been converted to a new environmentally sustainable planting system developed by the firm's respected head of viticulture Antonio Magalhaes and technical director David Guimaraens. At Vargellas, methods have been developed for the more efficient management of the old historic walled terraces allowing them to be preserved for the future.Thanks to these efforts, The Fladgate Partnership was awarded the BES Biodiversity Award in 2009.




Philosophy

Since its foundation in 1692, Taylor has been dedicated to making the finest Port.

The house remains entirely focused on Port production and specialised in its premium styles.  Unlike most other producers, it does not market any other wine.

Taylor is committed to remaining independently owned. This guarantees the continuity of purpose required to make wines of quality and character. It also preserves a priceless inheritance of experience and skill passed down through the generations over more than three centuries. 


Taylor's independence also helps to protect its future as a producer of the finest Ports, allowing it to make decisions and investments which are in the best long term interests of the firm and of future generations.  

The family character of the company also helps to nurture the personal relationships which lie at the heart of the fine wine business, such as the firm’s long established partnerships with its grape suppliers and with its customers around the world.   Most importantly it helps to strengthen the firm’s bond with those who appreciate and enjoy fine wines and whose loyalty is the firms' most important asset.

As an independent company whose success is inseparable from that of the Douro Valley, Taylor remains committed to protecting this beautiful region by practising viticulture which is economically and environmentally sustainable.  

The future of the Douro Valley and its unique environment is also the future of Port, one of the world's great classic wines and an irreplaceable part of human heritage.


Taylor’s is one of the few remaining housesto produce a 30 Year Old aged tawny Port. Selected red Ports produced in theeastern areas of the Douro Valley are matured in seasoned oak casks in Taylor’scellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. Here, the cool and damp coastal climateencourages a slow and gentle ageing process, producing aromas of great complexityand finesse.Only every two or three years is a reserveof Port with sufficient structure, fruit and power to age is laid aside to agein oak casks. Those that have reached their peak after thirty years are thenblended together for balance and finesse, and to ensure consistency of qualityand style. The 30 year old tawny is one such wine.

 

Tasting Notes:

Deep, old gold colour with hints of driedfruit and honey offsetting the rich nutty aromas. Lush, silky richness with anelegant, slightly austere quality which is quite distinctive. Subtle driedfruit flavours underly, exotic layers of caramel and nuts culminating in anendless finish


🏅Vinous 94 pts

The 30-Year Old Tawny (2017 bottling) is probably my pick of the various aged Tawnies currently sold by Taylor Fladgate. The nose is beautiful: very pure with crushed strawberry, rose petal, quince and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with ginger and allspice on the entry, a fine line of acidity and a very harmonious, almost nutty finish that lingers in the mouth. This is what Tawny Port is all about!


🏅Wine & Spirits 93 pts

Porto 30-Year-Old Tawny At a beautiful moment in its evolution, this blend has a lingering richness. The aromas are deep, complex and heady; the flavors of fresh apricot and nutmeats bring Douro almonds to mind. While the texture is luscious, light tannins keep it tight and firm. For fireside conversation


🏅Wine Advocate 92 pts

The NV 30 Year Old Tawny Port was bottled in February 2016 with a bar-top cork and comes in with 126 grams per liter of residual sugar. The last release of this I saw was the 2014. Obviously, the differences are typically small from year to year and they are not side by side, but this didn't show quite as well early on, whether due to it being a different release or just a different context. It shows good concentration while retaining some mid-palate finesse. It is complex, then it adds a powerfully intense finish laced with burnt orange peel and molasses as it warms. If I had a quibble, there was some noticeable alcohol, especially when retasted the next day. Some three or four days later, it was far smoother, but it is always a little edgy. Overall, this is a fairly stern style, dry and brooding, with that hint of spirits in the background. It reminds me of the stereotypical scene with Port (or Cognac), cigars and blue cheese. It just has that serious feel to it, along with that long finish. It seems to be one, as discussed in the accompanying article, that leans more to a 40-year Port. As always, these last indefinitely, barring cork failures, but they are not really meant to be held. Drink through 2040


🏅 Jancis Robinson 17.5 pts

Pale tawny-brown. Wood spice, clove, dark chocolate and cakebread. Intense sweetness with balancing acidity, dark chocolate, wood spice, some mahogany and more cinnamon-clove/cakebread. Mostly tertiary with just a core of residual fruit. Long, chocolate finish



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