Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape La Cuvee du Papet 2010 奧裡維酒莊帕佩特釀教皇新堡《ZTF842A》

Clos du Mont-Olivet（奧里維酒莊）始建於1932年，是當地一座歷史悠久且聲名在外的酒莊。酒莊共擁有43.5公頃葡萄園，其中20.5公頃位於Chateauneuf du Pap）產區。教皇新堡是Southern Rhone Valley（南羅訥河谷）最著名且最重要的葡萄酒產區，由於受Mistral（密斯托拉風）的影響，當地葡萄園氣候涼爽，加上多樣的土壤類型，孕育著多個葡萄品種。不過教皇新堡最為主要的紅葡萄品種是Grenache（歌海娜）、Syrah（西拉）和Mourvedre（慕合懷特），這三者共同釀製的GSM混釀也是教皇新堡的標誌性酒款。混釀不同地塊的葡萄與品種是教皇新堡法定產區的傳統與主流；在Clos du Mont-Olivet擁有的葡萄田裡，這些相異地塊的土質、坡向、高度、向陽角度皆有差異，而其中來自較高海拔、較涼爽、較多砂質土壤的葡萄園，對於Clos du Mont-Olivet的葡萄酒的細緻與平衡，有著難以量化的重要性。

教皇新堡的土質特色是那大小堆疊的鵝卵石，亦是產區內的主要土質。然而產區裡的第一名莊Château Rayas卻幾乎來自砂質土壤的葡萄田。Grenache Noir是個充滿活力的品種，然而在砂質土壤上，卻可以讓他顯得活力差一點，或許就是這細微的差別，才成就出Château Rayas的酒款裡其它酒莊難以比肩的雅緻細密質地；已故的Château Rayas釀酒師Jacques Reynaud曾說：「土質細膩等於葡萄酒細膩，那些巨大的鵝卵石大而無當，壞處多過好處！」

如今，Château Rayas的酒價早已高漲至難以親近，而同樣列名RVF三星酒莊、擁有諸多砂質葡萄田、價位又相對可親的Clos du Mont-Olivet，就成了消費者另一個好選擇。

Clos du Mont-Olivet的葡萄以人工採收、在田裡與酒窖進行雙重的果實篩選，以原生酵母、水泥槽發酵為主，風格上主張適量萃取，多數酒液以大型舊木槽陳年，視情形混用部份中、小型橡木桶。而Clos du Mont-Olivet的作品，呈現的是既傳統又現代的迷人融合：他的酒款是複雜瑰麗的雕樑畫棟，是一塵不染、富麗堂皇的夏宮。若將Château Rayas比擬為佩特拉古城，那Clos du Mont-Olivet就像是阿布達比的大清真寺，兩者呈現出的是截然不同的景觀與美感。

這款奧里維酒莊帕佩特釀教皇新堡紅葡萄酒就是由75%歌海娜、15%西拉和10%慕合懷特混釀而成。酒莊將這三種葡萄按比例投放至發酵罐中共同發酵，發酵過程中並不追求過度萃取，更關注的是平衡、優雅和清新度。三者在發酵熟成過程中，彼此磨合，取長補短，造就出口感複雜，極具深度的葡萄酒。歌海娜在混釀中所佔比例最高，雖然其顏色偏淺，但是可以為酒款帶來覆盆子等紅色水果的風味，同時提高酒精度；而西拉果味豐富，可以帶來如藍莓和李子等深色水果風味，同時也帶來咸鮮口感以及增強酒體；慕合懷特在混釀中所佔比例最少，但是其作用不容小覷，它可以很好地提升葡萄酒的複雜度、增加單寧含量以及增強餘味。

Wine Advocate 99 pts

Possibly the finest example of the Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Papet since Mont Olivet’s unreal 1990, the 2010 is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah, all aged in foudre. The grapes come from the estate’s oldest vines (50- to 105-years-old), which were planted in the famous sites of Mont Olivet and Bois Dauphin. A extraordinarily deep plum/purple color is followed by notes of balsam wood, raspberries, black currants, lavender, garrigue, kirsch, licorice and underbrush. This quintessential Chateauneuf du Pape smells like an open-air Provencal market. It is a full-bodied, full-throttle, multilayered wine with exceptional concentration, power and precision. While it can be approached now, it will not hit its prime for another 3-4 years, and should last for two decades given how well the 1990 continues to perform. One of the first properties to estate bottle their wines (over 80 years ago), Clos du Mont Olivet is owned by a branch of the Sabon family, a name that is well-known throughout the village of Chateauneuf du Pape. 

Vinous 95 pts

The 2olo Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet is flat-out stunning. Prominent spice box,forest floor,ivy,dried red fruits and cassis pastilles race out of the glass. Precisely outlined by ripe tannins, the full-bodied 2olO carries spot-onbalance,superblyintegrating itselevatedalcohol.Totallysavoryandwonderfullylayered,thisisaterrific La Cuvée du Papet that should continue to drink well for another ten years. That said, there's no need to wait-it has already entered its broad drinking window.