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Jean Francois Ganevat Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes 2012

昨晚終試到 Fanfan 呢碌 Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes ,此酒11年份曾經在 Le Guide Bettane et Desseauve 14 評為法國年度第一名葡萄酒 (Vin de L’annee),要搜刮呢支野唔容易,歸類為「要等機會買的酒」,我對佢心儀已久亦搵左好耐先入到手。Ganevat 1999年開始推出Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes,葡萄來自1902年開始種植的葡萄園,這塊Les Chalasses已是他最大的plot ,佔4公頃,百年老滕,極低產量只有15hl/ha,低到什麼程度?以Burgundy Grand Cru白酒為例產區法規可容許最大40-64 hl/ha,低產濃縮如貴腐Yquem 也有9 hl / ha,大家可以自行比較下。Fanfan 行biodynamic,採用天然酵母,極少干預,不落Sulfur,其實品嚐試FanFran 的Domaine wines - AOC Cotes de Jura 都不會像他的Vin de France 那些跨區域混不同產區葡萄做得咁Funky,玩味感重, 當然你先得要接受到自然酒果陣「𡃴 」。

 

「Sourced from seriously old vines, the 2012 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay les Chalasses Vieilles Vines is produced from vines planted in 1902 on grey marl, kept in contact with the lees for two years. It has some fine noticeable gas, but you see a big jump in concentration, complexity and subtleness compared to theory whites. The palate is sharp and precise, mineral, salty and tasty, and like many of these with a Jura twang, full of umami; it is a great, superb example of what a Chardonnay from Jura can achieve. Super! 」Wine Advocate 94 pts 

 

昨晚試的 Chalasses VV沒有Fanfan一貫很重自然酒的氣息,落口也不像有浸lee兩年咁耐,沒有明顯的yeasty,最初還抱著心理準備迎接oxidative note,結果也沒有,入口黃色水果然清純通透,帶如Chablis的高酸度,有點尖銳卻不抗拒,可感受很重像Chalky和Clay的氣息,就似用舌頭舔amphoras的表面那樣,在口中充滿土壤深層的Salinity 礦物感,均衡感強,特別喜歡他沒有過多的橡木桶氣息,這均功於fanfan 不用新桶,這也是他本人釀酒理念反覆強調「Fresher , Lighter , No mushroom , No buttery note 」,將 Chardonnay 的水果和土壤的特性以「Freshness」、「Salinity 」及「Purity」直率的展現出來,酒體富密集度且精準,唯一美中不足昨晚是生物動力法日曆的空日,不宜飲酒,唔多唔少影響支酒發揮,但對佢印象已很深刻。Fanfan的酒有人話佢能媲美burgundy 幾條Montrachet村的Chardonany,又有人話佢似champagne,至少這位仁兄能夠將Jura 產區推向新的高度,飲過他的酒都不會估係出自Jura 產區,不知對佢本來講是好事還是壞事?

 

「I believe I first drunk a bottle of Ganevat at the cult wine bar/restaurant Le Baratin, in Paris years ago, and then had the luck to find some of his 2004, 2005 and 2006s in a shop in Madrid. He has now become a star and his wines are highly allocated and sought after by fans all over the world. Jean-François Ganevat is the modern star of the Jura. Demand for his wines outgrows supply and his costs are high, but on the other hand, he doesn't want to put the prices up, so the solution is to increase volumes. With the vineyards he has, the way is to purchase grapes and to start a new négociant line of wines. That's how, for the first time, we see a Château Chalon from Jean-François, who is known as Fanfan. The reds have a more radical/earthy/organic profile and are more of an acquired taste. His ouillé whites from Chardonnay are among the most Burgundian wines from Jura, probably both because of his location and also his past work in Burgundy. The veil-aged wines are very good but do not reach the levels of Macle, Montbourgeau and Puffeney. His strengths are Grands Teppes, Chalasses Marnes Bleues and especially the other worldly Vignes de Mon Père.」 By Luis Gutierrez 

 

以他每年幾萬瓶的產量,又點足夠應付巿場?今次飲過他的Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes距離認識呢位 Jura 大神全部幾十款酒又拉近左少少距離,雖然他現在的舊年份酒一落巿場個價便翻幾翻,但他的新年份酒入手仍然是超值價(呢個價對比布根地能買到咩?)下一個目標當然係佢另外兩款Chardonnay “Gruss en Billat “ 與 Grands Teppes VV”,仲有用Savagnin 造的 “Les Vignes de Mon Pere” 

 

 

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